Fishing Tips & Shops

Oh yes more than most anglers realize.

The moon doesn’t just light up the night sky; it’s one of the most powerful forces shaping how, when, and where fish feed.

Let’s break it down

The Moon and the Tides — The Engine of Fish Movement

The moon’s gravitational pull drives the rise and fall of tides, which in turn dictates bait movement and predator positioning.

• New Moon & Full Moon = Spring Tides

These are periods of maximum tidal flow. Water moves faster and farther, stirring up nutrients, disorienting baitfish, and triggering predators to feed aggressively.

➜ Expect strong currents, active bait, and heavy strikes perfect for GTs, dogtooth tuna, and other hunters that thrive in chaos.

• Quarter Moons = Neap Tides

Water movement slows down, oxygen levels drop slightly near structure, and fish become more cautious.

➜ It’s a time for finesse and precision smaller lures, slower retrieves, and natural presentations can save the day.

Pro Move: If you’re targeting big GTs or pelagics, align your trip with the new or full moon phases for peak tidal energy.

Moonlight & Feeding Behavior Vision, Shadows, and Opportunity

Fish are visual hunters. The amount of moonlight drastically affects how and when they strike.

• Full Moon:

Bright nights make shallow-water predators more active. GTs, barracuda, and king mackerel use the extra visibility to ambush prey that glows in the moonlight.

However, fish may feed more at night and less during daylight, so plan early-morning or late-evening sessions.

• New Moon:

Darkness hides baitfish, pulling them closer to the surface or shoreline for safety. Big predators follow.

These are perfect nights for topwater and shore-jigging silent approach, loud explosion.

Hot Tip: If you fish at night, full moon = clear visibility but spookier fish. New moon = stealthier fishing, but more surprise attacks.

Moonrise, Moonset & “Major Feeding Windows”

Every lunar day, there are two major and two minor feeding periods.

Fish often feed hardest around moonrise and moonset even when the tide seems average.

That’s when gravitational forces and subtle current shifts align.

Many pros use lunar tables or apps like Solunar Forecasts to time their casts within these windows.

A 30-minute adjustment can turn a quiet session into pure chaos.

Pro Insight: Combine moonrise/moonset with high tide that’s your double trigger for monster action.

Seasonal & Regional Effects

Not all coasts respond the same way:

• Tropical waters (like the Red Sea) experience stronger tidal amplitude differences during full/new moons ideal for shore-jigging reefs.

• Equatorial regions may have shorter twilight hours, making moonlight more critical for nocturnal feeders.

• Winter months: Fish rely more on lunar light for hunting since days are shorter night fishing becomes even more productive.

Build Your Own “Lunar Fishing Log”

Keep a simple record after each trip:

• Date & moon phase

• Tide height & current speed

• Time of first and last bite

• Water clarity & lure type

After a few months, you’ll start spotting patterns for example:

“GTs smashing stickbaits 2 hours before high tide during waxing moon”

Once you find that rhythm, you’ll fish smarter, not harder.

Final Thought

The moon doesn’t just move the sea it moves the fish, and if you pay attention, it’ll move your catch rate too.

Master the lunar rhythm, and you’ll stop guessing… and start predicting.

What Are the True “Golden Hours” of Fishing and Why Do Fish Feed Aggressively During These Moments?

Every experienced angler knows there are certain moments when the ocean suddenly comes alive baitfish start moving, predators become active, and the entire environment feels different.

These aren’t random spikes. They’re the golden hours of fishing, and they’re far more dynamic than just sunrise and sunset.

Here’s a deeper look at why these windows produce explosive action especially when they line up with the beginning of the incoming tide.

1. Light Transition: Dawn & Dusk

During the hour before and after sunrise and sunset, the ocean goes through a major shift in light. This change triggers:

• Higher baitfish movement

• Reduced visibility for prey

• More surface and mid-water feeding

• Strong predator ambush behavior

Low light gives predators a huge advantage with minimal energy spent.

2. The Power of the Incoming Tide (Beginning of the Tide)

If there’s one tidal moment you should never miss, it’s the first push of the incoming tide.

Why?

• Fresh, oxygen-rich water moves in

• Baitfish get pushed toward structure

• Predators position themselves perfectly along edges

• Water clarity often improves

• Entire food chain becomes more active

The ultimate peak?

Golden hour + beginning of incoming tide = maximum feeding intensity.

Many trophy fish are caught exactly during this overlap.

3. Temperature Stabilization

Around sunrise and sunset, water temperatures settle often becoming cooler and more comfortable for fish.

This encourages predators to:

• Move shallower

• Patrol feeding lanes

• Hunt more confidently near the surface

Cooler water = more activity.

4. Calm Conditions & Better Presentation

Golden hours often come with lighter winds:

• Less surface glare

• Better lure action

• Cleaner presentations

• Higher strike detection

Your lure becomes easier to track and more enticing.

5. Low-Light Predator Advantage

Predators use low light to:

• Camouflage better

• Ambush faster

• Track silhouettes of prey

This is why many anglers get their hardest hits when visibility is low.

So When Should You Fish?

For the best results, target:

One hour before sunrise

One hour after sunrise

One hour before sunset

One hour after sunset

And most importantly: the start of the incoming tide especially if it matches one of these times

When these conditions line up, expect chaos. Rods bend, reels scream, and sessions become unforgettable.

IT MAKES A MASSIVE DIFFERENCE!

Most missed hook-ups aren’t bad luck… they’re blunt hooks.

Every time your hook drags across sand, reef, rocks, shells or even just fights a fish, the tip loses its needle point.

When that happens — you’ll feel the bite, strike… and nothing.

A sharp hook = better penetration and more catching than just fishing.

How to Test if Your Hook is Sharp

Use the thumbnail test:

1. Hold the hook by the bend.

2. Lightly place the point on your thumbnail (don’t push down).

3. If it catches / grips immediately → Sharp

4. If it slides → Needs sharpening

It takes 3 seconds and can be the difference between stories told and fish landed.

How to Sharpen Your Hook

Use a small hook file or smooth diamond stone:

• Sharpen the point from three sides (left, right, bottom)

• Always angle towards the point

• Don’t overdo it, you want a fine needle, not a chisel

PRO TIP:

Before sliding a bait or making a long cast, check your hook.

You’d be shocked how many bites are lost because the hook was blunt before it even hit the water.

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

If you’ve ever wondered why fresh bait works so well as bait… it’s all about the SCENT TRAIL
When oily baits hit the water, they start releasing a natural scent cloud. This scent is carried by currents, drifting along the bottom and through the water column — almost like a breadcrumb trail that leads fish straight to your bait.
Oily baits = stronger scent = more attraction
Mullet & bonito all give off high scent
Predator fish follow these scent trails to investigate
And here’s the key:
Fish don’t only use their eyes to find food — they rely heavily on their sense of SMELL.
In dirty water, at night, or in deep sandbanks, scent is often the #1 way fish find your bait.
Tip:
• Don’t wash your bait in freshwater (it removes the oils).
• Avoid touching your bait after applying sunscreen — unnatural scents can chase fish away.
• If the water is murky or pushing hard, go for a strong-smelling bait — it widens your scent trail.
The bottom line:
If you want fish to find your bait…
Use oily baits. Create scent.
Let the ocean do the calling.

Ever noticed how fishing can go dead quiet right after a big storm even when the water looks perfect?

That’s often because oxygen levels in the surf zone have taken a knock.

When the sea gets churned up by strong winds or big surf:

Sand, silt, and debris get mixed into the water, making it murky and reducing how much oxygen can dissolve.

Freshwater runoff from rivers or rain changes the salinity — and less salt means less oxygen-holding capacity.

Temperature changes can also play a role: warmer water holds less oxygen than cooler water.

Why it matters:

Fish, like us, need oxygen to breathe. When oxygen levels drop, they become sluggish, move deeper, or head for calmer, cleaner areas where the balance returns.

What to look for after storms:

Wait for the water to settle and clear a bit — especially if it looks brown or foamy.

Fish the incoming tide as it brings fresh, oxygen-rich water closer to shore.

Target white-water zones or gutter edges, where wave action naturally oxygenates the water.

Pro tip: Oxygen-rich surf = active fish. When the sea “comes alive” again, so does the bite!

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

Let’s settle one of the most common fishing questions

Most anglers know fish are incredibly sensitive to sound and vibration — but do they actually hear your voice, shouting, or talking from the beach or rocks?

Short answer:

No — fish don’t hear airborne sound well at all.

But… they do pick up vibrations, impact noise, and water disturbance extremely well.

Here’s how it works:

How Sound Travels in Water

• Sound moves 4x faster in water than in air.

• Fish don’t have ears like humans — instead they use:

• Their lateral line to detect vibration

• Inner ear bones (otoliths) to sense deeper sound

This makes them incredibly tuned in to vibrations, not voices.

So Can They Hear You Talking?

Not really. Airborne sound reflects off the water’s surface.

Normal talking, shouting, joking with your mates — that sound doesn’t penetrate underwater clearly.

What DOES alert fish?

What Fish Can Detect

Fish pick up:

• Heavy footsteps on rocks, boats or piers

• Rods hitting railings

• Tackle boxes slamming

• Wading or splashing in shallow water

• Dragging anchors

• Boat hull vibrations

• Dropping sinkers or metal on the rocks

These create low-frequency vibrations that travel instantly through water and can spook fish far quicker than your voice ever will.

What This Means for Anglers

If you want to be stealthy:

• Move lightly

• Avoid banging gear

• Keep your footsteps soft

• Don’t throw things into the water

• Anchor quietly

• Don’t splash when wading

Talking with your mates? That’s fine.

Banging your cooler box on the rocks?

That will scare every Kob in the gutter.

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

WHY THE FISHING CHANGES OVERNIGHT

Ever had those sessions where the fish were on fire one day and completely vanished the next?

Most anglers blame the moon, tides, or “bad luck” but one of the biggest influencers is water temperature, especially sudden shifts between warm and cold currents.

Here’s why WARM CURRENTS • Bring baitfish, mullet, anchovy and other warm-water species closer to shore. • Predators like, kingfish, bonito, and sharks often follow this food trail. • Warm water boosts metabolism — fish feed more aggressively and move more.

COLD CURRENTS

• Push warm-water species deeper or further north. • Bring cold-water species into their comfort zones. • Can make it go quiet for a day or two until temps stabilise. • Cold upwelling brings nutrient-rich water, great for long-term fishing, but tough for immediate bite.Why the sudden change?

Currents can shift overnight due to: • Strong winds • Swells or storms • Pressure systems • Seasonal changes • Localized upwelling around points or reefs

Even a 2–3°C drop can shut down warm-water feeders completely.

How to use this to your advantage: • Check temperature charts before fishing • Look for warm “pockets” of water after cold spells • Target sandbanks and gutters where warm water settles • Switch species depending on temp changes • Know your fish: some thrive in warm, others in cold

When you understand currents, you understand why the ocean behaves the way it does and suddenly, your fishing becomes a lot more predictable.

One of the most misunderstood moments in fishing is that split second when a fish picks up your bait. Do you strike hard? Do you wait? Do you tighten slowly?

The truth is the correct hook-set depends entirely on the hook you’re using.

STRIKING (Traditional J-Hooks)

When you’re using a standard J-hook, you must strike.

Here’s why:

• J-hooks rely on a quick, sharp pull to drive the point into the fish’s mouth

• A proper strike helps penetrate tough jaws

• Hesitating can result in the fish spitting the bait or shallow hook-ups

TIP: Strike firmly, not wildly — over-striking can damage your trace or tear soft mouths.

LETTING THE FISH LOAD UP (Circle Hooks)

Circle hooks are built differently.

Instead of striking, let the fish turn and load the rod.

Why?

• A strike can yank a circle hook straight out

• As the fish moves off, the hook naturally rotates into the corner of the mouth

• Perfect for safe releases & solid hook-ups

Best for: live bait/chokka, shark fishing, catch-and-release sessions

TIP: When you feel weight, just lift and wind. Let the tackle do the work.

WHEN IN DOUBT:

• J-Hook = STRIKE

• Circle Hook = DON’T STRIKE

Understanding this small difference can mean the difference between catching nothing and a PB.

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

Busting the myth, what their presence really tells you

Many anglers panic the moment dolphins show up thinking the fishing is finished. But that’s one of the biggest myths in surf fishing.

Here’s the truth:

Dolphins don’t chase fish away

They’re often working the same bait lines, rips and currents that predators like. If there’s food around, everyone is feeding.

Their presence usually means LIFE in the water

Dolphins follow baitfish, and predators follow baitfish too. If they’re cruising your zone, it’s a sign of a healthy food chain, not a dead sea.

Predator activity increases, not decreases and capitalising on stirred-up bait balls.

Only time they affect your catch?

When they’re right on top of your baits — and even then, it’s temporary. Once they move past, the zone often switches back on immediately.

So next time you see dolphins? Don’t pack up. Get excited.

It usually means you’re exactly where you need to be.

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

WHERE MOST ANGLERS LOSE 20 METRES

If you’ve ever wondered why some anglers consistently out-cast others with the same rod, same reel, same line it almost always comes down to technique, not gear.

Here’s where most people lose distance:

Poor Timing

The biggest distance-killer is releasing too early or too late.

Your rod loads… but the power never transfers forward.

Fix: release at the right moment usually around the 45° forward arc.

Not Loading the Rod Properly

Power casting isn’t about muscle it’s about letting the rod do the work.

If your sinker isn’t loading the blank before the forward swing, you lose metres instantly.

Fix: smooth, controlled build-up from the back cast, then a clean acceleration.

Wrong Sinkers for the Conditions

A 5oz on a rod rated for 3–4oz won’t load properly…

A 3oz in a strong headwind dies mid-air.

Fix: match your sinker weight to your rod rating and the wind direction.

Line Slap & Guide Friction

Loose loops or poor line lay can cause massive resistance on the first few guides.

Fix:

• Use correct spool tension

• Keep braid tight on the spool

• Make sure your guides and tip eye are clean and smooth

No Follow-Through

Stopping your arms early kills momentum.

Fix: let your rod follow through naturally power flows out the tip.

Wrong Stance or Footwork

Casting from a stiff, locked stance = no power from your body.

Fix: step into the cast, rotate your hips, and let your whole body create momentum.

Want more distance?

A few tweaks to timing, loading, footwork and sinker choice can easily add 20–30m without upgrading any gear.

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

Ever wondered why one angler gets the bite and the next doesn’t? Often, it comes down to what the fish sees.

From below the surface, your leader is the first thing that can give you away.

Here’s why choosing the right thickness and type of leader makes all the difference:

Thinner leaders = more natural presentation

A thin leader blends into the water better, letting your bait move freely and naturally. Shy feeders are more likely to commit when they don’t spot a thick line.

Thicker leaders = protection and power

When fishing around reefs, rocks, or toothy species, thicker leaders give you abrasion resistance and the confidence to pull hard but can be more visible in clear water.

Why fluorocarbon and monofilament leaders matter

Fluorocarbon has a refractive index close to water, making it nearly invisible underwater perfect for clear surf and estuaries.

Monofilament, on the other hand, offers stretch and shock absorption, helping cushion powerful runs and sudden head shakes.

Both options help disguise your setup and improve your hookup rate!

Match your leader to the conditions

In crystal-clear water, go lighter or use fluorocarbon.

In murky or rough conditions, step up the diameter and strength fish rely more on vibration and scent than sight.

Presentation is everything

It’s not just about strength it’s about how your bait looks underwater.

That’s why fluorocarbon and monofilament leaders are essential tools in every serious angler’s tackle box.

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

Murky water • Oxygen drop • Salinity changes

After heavy rain, anglers often notice the fishing shuts down — and there’s a very real reason for it. Freshwater runoff dramatically changes the entire feeding environment.

Here’s what happens:

1. The water turns murky

Runoff pushes mud, leaves and debris into the ocean. Visibility drops, baitfish scatter, and predators rely heavily on sight so they stop actively hunting.

2. Oxygen levels fall

Sediment-filled water carries lower oxygen. When oxygen drops, fish become sluggish, stressed, and far less likely to feed.

3. Salinity suddenly changes

Saltwater species hate rapid salinity shifts. Freshwater sitting on top of seawater creates a “freshwater lid,” and many species move deeper or leave the area entirely.

4. Baitfish move out, predators follow

Once the food chain shifts, everything higher up moves too. This is why even normally productive spots can feel “dead” for days after big rains.

So if the river mouths are pumping brown water, don’t panic, just shift your strategy.

Look for cleaner water lines, deeper holes, or fish further away from the runoff plume.

www.bigsnapper.co.nz

Your braid is the lifeline between you and your fish — but even the best line doesn’t last forever. Knowing when to replace it can save fish… and your gear.
Here’s how to tell it’s time for fresh braid:
1. Faded to white
A bit of fading is normal, but when your braid loses ALL colour, it’s usually a sign the protective coating is gone.
2. Fluffy or “hairy” texture
If your braid looks fuzzy or feels rough, the fibres are breaking down. That means weak spots — and lost fish.
3. Flat or ribbon-like sections
When braid starts flattening, it doesn’t cast properly and can dig into itself under pressure.
4. Knots slipping or fraying
If your knots aren’t locking as cleanly as before, the fibres are worn out.
5. Heavy surf fishing or constant abrasion
Rocky areas, heavy sliding, sharks, and big kob sessions all destroy braid faster. High-use anglers should upgrade more often.
How long does braid last?
• Light spinning braid: 6–12 months (if used a lot)
• Heavy surf braid: 6–18 months
• Casual use: Up to 2 years if well cared for
Pro tip:
Flip your braid end-to-end every few months — the unused section becomes your fresh top-shot.

Sandbanks • Rip Channels • Reefs • Gutters all explained simply

When anglers say “FIND THE STRUCTURE,” they’re not talking about buildings under the water they’re talking about the shape of the ocean floor and the features that affect how fish feed and move.

Understanding structure is one of the biggest keys to catching more fish.

Here’s a simple breakdown:

1. Sandbanks

Shallow, raised areas of sand where waves break first.

Why they matter:

• Waves dump onto sandbanks, pushing baitfish over the edge.

• Predators sit behind the bank where the water deepens, waiting for confused bait.

How to spot:

Look for waves that break far out, then reform or flatten behind the break.

2. Rip Channels (Rips)

Deeper “river-like” lanes where water pulls back out to sea.

Why they matter: